Beirut, Through My Eyes
A city where craft meets hospitality
In my circles, Beirut needs no introduction, but whenever I see how pleasantly surprised non-Arabs are when they visit Lebanon, I realize maybe it does. How I feel about Beirut is hard to put into words. Every time I land, I feel disarmed in seconds, as if the city is reminding me I’m home. On my most recent trip, I knew I’d caught the “Beirut bug” when I found myself browsing house listings (which is always a good sign).
Over the past few years, I’ve returned at least once a year. There’s always a wedding, engagement, or birthday — and I never turn down an invitation to go back. But since starting SOFRA, I’ve begun seeing the city through a new lens: as a hub for extraordinary ceramicists and artisans.
A City of Artisans
Beirut has one of the highest “tableware artist to square meter” ratios I’ve ever encountered. Most of these artisans (many of them women) work from their homes or basements, balancing ceramics with day jobs, community projects, and family life.
When I visit, they never suggest to meet in a café or office. Instead, I’m invited into their homes for tea and a tour of their studios. They’ll ask me about my husband, whether I have kids yet (and why I should hurry up!!) and of course about SOFRA. By the end, I always feel like I’m sat with someone I’ve known for years. I eventually meet their kids, their pets and sometimes even their parents. It’s that warmth, the openness, the informality that makes Beirut feel so familiar to me.
Beirut is Always a Feast
Hospitality here is abundant. If you’ve ever been invited to a Lebanese home, you’ll know: buffets are curated like art installations, with platters that never seem to end. It’s no wonder so many local ceramicists focus on very large serving dishes. Beirut is a city built for sharing.
And it has everything: the chaos of the city, the calm and serenity of the mountains and the beauty of the sea. It really does have something for everyone. And while it historically failed me on my quest for matcha, I discovered Base Coffee during my last trip and now I think I might actually be able to live there.
A Mini-Guide to Tableware and Beyond
Your Treasure Trove Shope
First off, I’d be amiss not to mention Orient 499. Focused on a more oriental approach, they have much more than just tableware. Jewellery, clothing, even wall décor, it’s all here. On a previous trip, I picked up several pairs of handmade serveware from India, and they remain favourites on my table. They’ve also recently opened in Alserkal Avenue in Dubai, making them even easier to reach.
The Gifting Gem
When it comes to thoughtful gifts, Image D’Orient is my go-to. Their tea cup sets with matching caddies come beautifully boxed, the kind of present that always delights.
Where Artists Meet the Table
A brand that feels close to SOFRA’s ethos, Beit Collective works directly with artists, graphic designers, fashion designers, and more, o create exclusive collections. Don’t miss Melissa Haddad’s sun plates: they’re pure joy on a table.
Ceramics Curated
Pikd is a gallery-style space in Saifi showcasing some of the best ceramicists in Lebanon. It is definitely worth a dedicated visit: the staff are warm, knowledgeable, and always eager to share the stories behind each piece.
Tucked-Away Delights
Beit Kanz is not quite a tableware shop, but their in-house store within the restaurant curates wonderful objects for the home alongside pantry staples. I always leave with chocolate-covered hazelnuts and a jar of their kibbeh spice mix.
Her Cakes Say It Best
When invited to someone’s home, I never arrive empty-handed. Rouba Khalil Kitchen’s cakes are my go-to hostess gift: delicious, elegant, and always appreciated.
A Saturday Ritual
Every Saturday, Tawlet Farmers’ Market is a must. Buy Celine’s fig and tahini jam (it’s genuinely life-changing), stock up on zaatar and sumac, and, of course, grab a manoucheh to snack on while you wander.
Beyond The City
As much as I love the city, one of my favorite rituals is leaving it and exploring more of Lebanon. Within an hour, you can be in the mountains, breathing fresher air, surrounded by pine forests and stone houses that feel worlds away. It reminds me of the joy I get from a countryside getaway when I’m in the UK — that same quiet, that same reset.
I have a never-ending list of guesthouses I’d like to stay at. In the past, I’ve spent nights at Bkerzay, but Beit Trad and Beit Douma are all on my wish list. On my most recent trip, a friend planned a lunch at Maison de Sources and arranged for me to arrive early, to cook and spend time in the kitchen with the owner Fadi and his incredible team.
That day in the mountains, away from it all, everything clicked: why I keep coming back, why Beirut feels so much like home, and why ceramics here carry more than utility. There’s a quiet poetry in the work of Lebanese makers, each one reveals a facet of Lebanon’s character: warm, imperfect and endlessly generous.
A reminder that craft, like hospitality, is second nature here.
Until next time Sahtein, and thank you for pulling up a chair,
Dana x
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